Puzzling after all the 75 mph air flow. Only thing I did different before the trip was to hose out the radiator from behind. This I advise only if you want to get wet wet wet. Will see today. NickD wrench. Joined Aug 28, Messages 5, Points Did this on my old 89 Continental, installed a thermal breaker mid range on the radiator tank to control the fans, JC Whitney sells the kit, had that stuff laying around.
Bill: I'm not sure what the control limits are on my Mercury, but I know they turn on at around plus and the gage drops before they turn off. Gonna try a hot drive today and see if my fin cleaning really did anything or not,. Eng temp never got off mid scale. Rad fan was running at LS when I pulled over and soon began to cycle evenly, temp stayed at mid scale.
Mobile Dan wrench. Rad flow test Remove fans, after cold start, feel radiator sections with hand when t-stat opens 1st and 2nd time. With engine up to temp, spray rad with garden hose to cool it down, then wait to see if any section fails to get hot enough to evaporate water. If I go into this assembly, a new radiator will go in as well as any fan motor that seems weak.
The rad is 17 years old and ran in the NY salt every year. I think a rad will fix the problem. At least it will give this old guy some real exercise. I'm about at the point where I am ready to remove the AC condenser, AC is pretty poor, but there is no point in addressing it, as there is no way I would try to use it with the car running too high a temp for my liking. I think I'm going to try and use one of John's custom radiators shown above- looks like this will do the trick, and I may even be able to use my AC!
You must log in or sign up to post here. Show Ignored Content. Share This Page Tweet. Your name or email address: Do you already have an account? No, create an account now. Yes, my password is: Forgot your password? The LSVs are the ones with a cover preventing you from adjusting them until the cover is removed hence the term. As you close down the LSVs on the hot radiators you might find the boiler starts cutting out.
This could mean the pump is not powerful enough assuming the pipes are not clogged up so check if it has an adjustable speed and try a faster setting. Radiators are designed to give their rated output with a mean water temperature of about 80 deg C. It doesn't matter whether you have that value or not when you balance as it can be adjusted by the boiler thermostat according to the heat you actually need. Similarly the oft quoted 11 deg C drop across the radiators is really nothing to do with the radiators!
This need not be a problem; it may be that the boiler is oversized for the house, and the converse of course follows. If you have an older boiler, no modulating controls, or Hydraulic separation on your system, other methods of balancing are also available. OR you might not even need to use lockshield valves to balance! In the commercial world, for example, it's imperative to know how you are going to control each circuit. You will then choose a pump control type in combination with a valve type that compliments it, to efficiently distribute flow.
Pumps use different methods to manage the flow and save energy. You could have burner linked, DT controlled, differential pressure control, outside sensor control, constant pressure, constant speed, proportional pressure and more an article to follow on these.
But typically this can be broken down into 2 groups, pumps that vary the speed to target pressure, and pumps that vary the pressure to target a speed. You would then select a specific valve type that works to supplement this.
The problem with domestic modern modulating boilers is that they vary both the pressure AND flow rate. This can be very complicated to manage, and so the only option left is to balance with the humble lockshield, which is more than ample in domestic we might add. However, all lockshields arent the same for balancing! What you didn't know about lockshield valves! The Grundfos Alpha2 system will work with any of these pump logic or any valve.
However, you have to use their Alpha 3 pump. Once the system is filled and cleared of air, you connect an external Bluetooth module to your phone and the pump. Your phone will then instruct you how much to adjust the lockshield or what presetting flow-limiting TRVs should be adjusted to.
After finishing this will then generate a report showing that you have balanced which may be handy for the imminent balancing legislation. Automatic balancing valves aka pressure independent control PIC are usually commercial valves that have a built-in flow limiter, and these are simply TRV versions of those.
They incorporate a flow rate selector underneath the TRV head and is numbered say 1 to 5. Each number corresponds to a flow rate which will be in the manufacturer's instructions, simply select the flow rate you require and adjust!
We would strongly advise setting the pump carefully with these. If the pump targets a set pressure differential across the valve is below 1meters head they don't have full control and the further radiators may struggle.
However, these valves typically have quite small-bore restrictive pathways and increased valve authority , so this will be unlikely. Take note though, if you run the pump at a higher differential pressure than the minimum required, your pump power consumption will increase. For example, if you can get enough flow to the radiators with 3 meters head, but the pump is left at 6m head, you will double your power consumption. You should absolutely experiment with lowering your pump speed until flow begins to suffer.
If you double your resistance, you double your power consumption this is a direct linear relationship. Read more. If your pump is targeting speed, you will need to be even more careful. If the set speed is even slightly above your total flow limit through all the valves added together, then the valves will place exponentially more resistance against the pump, and the pump will increase to maximum pressure differential to compensate.
This will draw the maximum power, for that flow rate. It's for this reason, we would always suggest leaving one bypass radiator for any excess flow to go through when using these valves. We would not suggest these valves for use with a modern modulating boiler which varies both pressures and flows for the reasons described above, or with a DT controlled pump. Here's a little explainer. You also have available PIC pressure independent control valves that work in line with the pipework, however, this would only be expected to be used with larger commercial systems.
The only other advice we would give when it comes to valve selection is to be aware of and understand valve authority and valve 'opening characteristics'. This is fully covered in our 'what you didn't know about lockshield's' article. The other variable to whether you require extra time balancing or different valve types depends on how your system is piped and may be easier to resolve by adjusting when you replace the boiler or installing in a slightly different way from the start.
System layout also dictates what pump setting you should ideally use. Installing or adjusting pipework in a slightly different way when installing a new boiler can ensure that balancing is easy, and even negate the need to balance the system at all! As described in Understanding pressure and flow , when you balance a heating system you are effectively making each circuit have the same or similar resistance as each other. The main reason systems are out of balance and have dissimilar resistances is because of the communal pipework.
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